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Trading in a car with CHECK ENGINE LIGHT - what to do?

Discussion in 'BBS Hangout' started by tmac2k8, Sep 22, 2010.

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  1. CrazyDave

    CrazyDave Contributing Member

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    Seriously, I hope you're kidding. Sadly, this is how many people are today.




    OP, check engine light is generally an emissions issue, and probably CatConverter related. It might just be oxygen sensors in front of it, which would run roughly $200-$250 per, but if it's catconverter it's gonna run $1250-$1500 probably depending on model. You can get someone to run a diagnostic on that to find out what the problem is, might cost you $80 or so, but at least you'd know what you're up against when the dealership says "The engine light is on, here is an offer of $XXX less than bluebook. Further, it sounds like that car is not in as good of shape as you think, but who knows. Get it checked out, and then take it in. Ask them what they'll give you for it... before you start looking at other vehicles. Then make your decision.
     
  2. Stack24

    Stack24 Contributing Member

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    Where did you get that the check engine light is generally an emissions issue? That light coming on is anytime a car throws a code. It can be anywhere from emissions, misfires, cam positions sensors, and everything in between. There is a lot more than emissions involved when it comes to that light coming on.

    The only way to find out would be to get it read. A lot of times a check engine light comes on and it's nothing more than your car having a hiccup and can be cleared and never come back again.
     
  3. tmac2k8

    tmac2k8 Member

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    Did I mention I got the codes checked out?

    The first code was Random Cylinder Misfire , the 2nd code had something to do with a purge valve needing to be replaced, I know this because this was a pre-existing, the random misfire is what's new.

    I put in $2500 this year on timing belt, water pump, new tires, water pump, rear brakes, and I will be putting more into it if I need to fix these items.

    True, you have to replace those things on every car after awhile but the timing belt was replaced because I had a water pump leaking and the mechanic already did the labor so he suggested changing out the belt prematurely although I saw the belt and it was far from needing to be changed, however I did it anyways to save labor cost since it was coming towards that time in terms of milage anyways.

    Volkswagens are pricey to repair and maintain, I spend at least $50 - 60 on an oil change due to the requirement for synthetic oil, plus alot of the work is not routine due to the way the car is built so I'm looking at more costly repairs in the future if other things go wrong.
     
  4. CrazyDave

    CrazyDave Contributing Member

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    Where I get it is that frequently, that has been the case in my experience, but if you notice I did tell him to check it out (I'm somewhat sure it says as much in my vehicle's manual as well). It can be other things, but often this is the case by my experience. Sometimes it's as simple as the gas cap not being put on right.

    You can get it cleared, but if the problem is legit, it comes back on after 60-100 miles, I believe, and mechanics can tell when they've been reset, I think.
     
  5. Stack24

    Stack24 Contributing Member

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    Yeah it can be simple things but it also can be much more as well. Yes resetting it only works if it is something that just randomly came up but if it is more of a pressing problem it will come back.

    It depends on which machine they have so they can figure out if it has been reset or not. If you try and take the car for inspection and they do the emissions test some of the tests will come back as not ready because it resets all of it and you have to do a drive cycle for it to give any information to the inspection/emissions computer so that's how they can tell most of the time. But it has to be a high end computer that dealerships have and they have to be looking for it.
     
  6. tmac2k8

    tmac2k8 Member

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    UPDATE:

    So i just traded in the car, I got a 2010 honda civic.

    Why so quick? My check engine light began to flash when idle. The engine was shaking and sounded very off. I turned the car off and started it again, the check engine light stopped flashing but stayed on, I went ahead and traded it in right away at the closest dealership. They offered me $2500 for it as they said the check engine light could be a serious problem, I turned it down and walked away so they offered me $5000 which is more than the KBB trade in value for my car with mechanical work required.

    I have a bit of buyer's remorse after only because I didn't shop around but I didn't think I could afford to drive all over town looking for a deal when my car's engine light started flashing and the car could stop at any moment.

    Oh, and I knew what the codes were, it was all 4 cylinder misfires, and systems lean condition. I was already told by VW at the beginning of the year I would need a new purge valve which I didn't get, i also obviously had a vaccuum hose leak so i figure the cost of repair would be close to $1000 for all that. That plus I was losing 1 quart of oil every month from the engine burning it up.
     
  7. chow_yun_fat

    chow_yun_fat Contributing Member

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    I was going to say you should have bought a civic, but it looks like you got one now. :thumbs up:.

    Now that you own a civic, you don't have to worry about it falling apart after a few years of ownership. To be honest, every Honda/Toyota - Acura/Lexus I've ever owned has never had a problem. I went Bmw once...and as much as I loved the car, the amount of issues I had that needed to be repaired was very troublesome so I got rid of it.
     

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