Is there a good starting place/review site to see capabilities of this one? I'm still a complete newbie in terms of 3d printing knowledge vs other tech areas/mechanics etc. Ie - like if you want to talk about chips/tech/networks/how something works/repair/even building something, I'm decent/great at a lot of areas, but 3d printing is still something I'm way behind on. Like currently I'd say I'm the last person to ask anything about 3d printing... I remember in this thread discussing possibilities of the tech, but then took on too many projects/work etc and falling further behind on it, haha. I'm also definitely not expecting the world with this deal or something but just curious is all especially since you know a lot on it. thanks so much for sharing this deal too!
Ender 3 is the starter model for this hobby. Check out the subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/ Also thousands of videos on YouTube. TeachingTech and Chep are two great ones. This is a no-brainer IMO for $100. Also, there's a $10 off filament coupon IN the box, so buy the printer, go to your car, open the box, go back in and use the coupon. Filament is in the very back right corner of the store. My advice: don't get too sucked into the world of modding and tweaking the printer itself right off the bat. Start printing fun stuff from Thingiverse. Then mod your printer out once you have some idea of what you're doing. Modding can be a rabbit hole.
+1 for Endre Pro v2. It was my entry in to the world of 3d Printing. Neat device. Thingiverse is great. Like the other recommendations, follow some the the subreddits like /r/ender3. On twitter, @3dpdeals for great deals on amazon etc for filament.
This is the kind of innovation that is possible with 3D printers. Obviously, for this project it's just one piece of the puzzle (coding, mechanical aptitude, resources) DOOMED Cyborgs, take the power back from the machines! @KingCheetah @tinman
I missed this thread. I was close to jumping on the Elegoo Jupiter when it was on Kickstarter but eventually decided not to. I thought it might have been a bit too much for a first timer. I do have some experience with 3 axis but not on the printing side. I still want to get one but it will likely be a smaller one and not resin. I didn't realize resin was hazardous. Is it too much of a gamble to get a used one?
very frustrated with my Ender3, cannot get the first layer to stick no matter what adjustments I make
You can get soy-based resin. FDM (filament) is the way to go IMO. You can get an Ender 3 Pro for $99 at MicroCenter: https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter.aspx
I may grab that deal so I can finally get my feet wet. Thanks for posting the link. Can you comfortably print 8³in?
Z is 250mm=9.84 inches, so yes. X and Y are 235mm=9.25 inches, so you can print it on it's side. Do your research on sex toys before you go crazy making dildos out of PLA. It can be porous so it's probably a one-time use unless you treat it with some sort of finishing material.
The guy who made them is at most a very young college student. I'd say VR pron is his top VR application.
I used the standard bed that came with it, then bought the glass bed accessory they have, but it didn't help.
You need to take it back to zero and do a few things with your printer and in your slicer software Physical items you need to do: Use the glass bed or get a PEI bed (I use PEI). PEI seems to be the consensus best because it's metal which holds temperature best, is tough enough to flex and it won't warp, and is much lighter than glass, which can affect your prints due to ringing and other physics related issues. Do a manual paper level on all four corners. The paper should just barely catch like in this video. Do it three times, clockwise on all four corners. I manually level after every few prints and always before a big print. Then give it a thin coat with a glue stick on the surface like in this video. I use Elmer's purple Then pop your prints off with the scraper the Ender comes with. If you have a PEI bed, you can take the bed off (it's magnetic( and flex the bed an it will pop off Lightly wipe the surface down with rubbing alcohol. You can tap it and if it's still sticky, no need to re-apply the glue stick You can wipe any excess glue off the bottom of the model with a damp cloth Software slicer items you need to do: In your slicer, make the first layer super slow. For big prints, i do 10mm/s. For smaller prints, I don't go over 30mm/s In your slicer, also increase the bottom layers. I do 5 layers If your model doesn't have a lot of base touching the plate, add a Brim for surface adhesion. They can be a PITA to get off, but it's worth the extra couple of minutes to not have to deal with the frustration of a print that has broken loose of the build plate during the print. Speed matters, especially if it's a big print, because physics. I don't do big prints over 60mm/s. This will help you avoid layer shifting as well. All of this adds up to just a few minutes of time, totally worth it to avoid the frustration and keep 3D printing fun.
3D printing is the next industrial revolution. Everything from houses to food to people parts. In 100 years a hand crafted house will be for luddites or rich people who want to boast that an actual carpenter built their home.
