Hey guys i need a real quick question answered for something that was wired wrong here at live and we are trying to replace the item with the right plug. We had to have a 220 plug put in for appliances here at live but the used the wrong recepticle type where the plug would go. Originally it had a red wire, black wire, and white wire plugged in and the last wired which is bare im assuming the ground wire was not attached to anything. Now we have to replace this with an l630-rccv3 - Turnlock Single Outlet like this http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(j...roductDetails.aspx?source=aceoutlet&SKU=33678 We know the red and the black go to the copper parts, and the ground goes to the green according to the directions but what happesn to the white wire that is left? Is the white the ground or the stripped bare wire? It says it's a 3 wire recepticle but there are 4 wires...any help would be greatly appreciated or you could stop in for a free drink
White is the neutral line. If the receptacle only has 2 poles + 1 for the ground, then you have the wrong one. Looking at the photo, its not right. It only has 3 holes. Should have 4.
Well the problem is the contractor apperntly put in the wrong recepticle. We needed the one that is in the picture to be placed in there instead of the type of recepticle that is usually used for washer and dryers. Will we still be able to wire this type in the location we have with out any problem? Do we leave the white wire loose and just use the hot wires + the ground?
well, the photo you provided is to a 125V, not a 250V(220) and its a non-grounded outlet ....so that is completely the wrong receptacle you can't leave the white wire loose ...the outlet won't work without it, since its the neautral line ....the red and black wires are "hot", each carrying 125V(110), thus 250V (220), the white wire is neautral and the bare wire is your ground
Sorry it is a 250 that we got. It's a 30A 250VAC Like this one... http://www.hardwareworld.com/30a250v-Lock-Receptacle-p10KB86.aspx http://www.shop.com/op/~L630R_30A_250V_LOCK_RECEPTACLE_1944446-prod-11583809-17601960?sourceid=298 So what can we do if we have this? Will we not be able to hook this up? Okay on the back of the instructions i guess it says connect hot wires to brass, Neutral to Silver terminal Screw and Ground to green...so i guess it does have a place for us to put the nuetral but not sure exactly where on the outlet...I don't see any other screw exept for the three.
what type of appliance are you plugging into it? how old is the appliance? how many prongs on the plug?
It's for our new coffee shop, it's some coffee machine and the specs we have are for this type of plug.
i don't think you have the right type of receptacle this is what you are probably looking for: http://www.onestopbuy.com/2410-B-7192.asp?pt=froogle You need to check the # of prongs on the coffee machine plug (im assuming its undustrial grade if you are having to use a 220/250 outlet for it). If its a 3 prong, then it might be older and you might have to upgrade the plug/wiring to the coffee machine itself. Also, check the AMP rating for the coffee machine itself. The one I listed is a 20amp. If the machine is rated @ 20amps, then the recept I just listed should work, assuming the machine has a 4 prong plug. Based on the last two links you showed me, those are non-grounding receptacles, which is why you are only finding 3 terminals instead of the 4 you need. Those are 2 pole, 3 wire ones. You need 4 pole, 4 wire ones and upgrade the machine wiring/plug as necessary.
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Hmmm that is very wierd because i have the Espresso machines specs sheet and it says to get a 208 VOLT 30 Amp single phase power outlet. Receptacle type NEMA L6-30R Breaker 30 AMP. And that is the one we bought. The NEMA L6-30R and the picture of the actual receptecale looks like the one we bought and the one i am showing you.
does the receptacle holes match up with the plug prongs? does the machine come with its own wire & plug? (this sounds like a dump question, but alot of major appliances, like dish washers, garbage disposals, etc. don't come with their own wiring and plugs)
Well the thing is that the company comes and does the initial install of the unit and we have to have the power receptacle, water lines etc already put in. When they came in and we had the other one they told us it was wrong and we had to change it....so we bought the one according to their specs and we were supposed to have it installed.
ok, since we don't know what the plug looks like, then this is the best advice I can give you (btw ..im not a licensed electrician, but I have done alot of wiring on my own home and others and know a ton about this stuff) 1) In a 220/250 setup, the two hot wires (red and black) each carry 110/125 to give you 220/250. The white/neutral wire is there to provide 110/125. The bare wire is for the ground. 2) If the machine is calling for a 6-30R, then everything on the machine is running on 220/250. In this setup, if the machine had a component that needed 110/125, then you would need that white wire. For example, on an electrical dryer, the main heating unit may run off of 220/250, but the timer run off of 110/125. So you would have to do a 3 pole, 4 wire outlet (the 3 poles are for the 2 hots, the neutral and the 4th wire is the ground). In this case, again, it sounds like everything in the machine is 220, and if thats true, no need for the neutral. 3) You can just wire the black and red wires to the two brass terminals on the outlet, and then the bare wire (ground) to the grounding terminal (these are usually a green screw). On the black and red, it doesn't matter which wire goes where, as long as both are on a brass terminal. 3) Cap off the white wire (again, as long as nothing in the machine requires 110/125, then you can do this) with a wire nut and some black electrical tape. 4) VERY IMPORTANT. I realize you are having this installed by someone else. If these guys are just "installers", they aren't going to care either way. However, I am pretty sure that its not "code" in Houston to do this as I have just explaine.d Technically, this is the receptacle you should buy: http://www.onestopbuy.com/2720-B-7237.asp If you use this, the plug on the machine probably will not match up, since they instructed you to use a L6-30R. (the difference between the L6-30R and the L15-30R (the one I just linked to) is the extra wire, which adds an extra hole in the receptacle. The right way to do it, would be to change the plug/wire on the machine to match the receptacle I just listed. I realize this is a new machine, but where its manufactured at, and where its installed at may have totally different electrical codes, which is why they make it to where you can change out the plugs/wiring. Again, an installer isn't going to care about "code", but an electrician will. So my best advice is, check with a licensed electrician. If not, you can always just do it as I have just explained, but be wary that if you are in the city, you coul be out of code by doing in that way (capping off the neautral/white wire).
Stack, FYI, i check with a friend of mine this morning, who is a license electrician. He confirmed what I thought. The absolutely proper way to do it, would be to go with the receptacle that I listed and rewire the machine with the matching cord/plug. However, he did say you can use the receptacle that you already got, and just cap off the white/neutral wire and use the factory cord/plug on the machine. He also said that this isn't technically "code" for the city though and if they ever inspected (he thought that it probably would never happen) they would write you up on it and make you change it to the right way. Safety wise, he said there is no difference doing it either way.
